Recommendations for 2K urethane top coats?

DirectorGunner

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I've vacuum formed plastic helmet.
I need to gold chrome it.
I have all the equipment, 30 gal compressor, 1.4mm dual nozzle siphon feed spray gun, 3M accuspray system, and will be ordering the chroming chemicals from Angel Gilding (since those seem to be the cheapest source of quality chroming chemicals?).

But.. in order to chrome anything, the surface you chrome needs to be very glossy and preferably smooth.
I have self leveling primer, but I need to use a 2K urethane top coat before chroming.
I need to order quickly... so any recommendations?

P.S.
Also, need recommendations for a gold pigment to use with the chroming for the concierge style explorer helmet.

P.S.S.
Was considering these products
 
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DirectorGunner

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How many cosplay video how-to's have you watched on youtube? :smile:
ALL of them lol

No never chromed before.
But I've a slight art background and heavy construction background... I'm not intimidated by the chroming process, it's like cooking fine cuisine.. you need all the proper ingredients and follow the proper portions and procedures using the proper tools.

Super serious, I'm making up for the ~10 years I had wanted to do a Gears of War COG armor cosplay.. so... 10 years of built up "I'm no longer waiting to make this happen!" mentality.. with the UEE heavy marine :P
 

Sirus7264

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first decide which type of chroming you plan to do.(From what i read you are planning on Spray chroming. It's a good choice but it won't stay forever like real plating. but if you want to real plate it then it's going to cost a pretty penny to buy all the gear you need to do it and you would have to be plating a metal.)

If you using a metal then follow this. and remember to make sure you use 2 metals which are compatable.

We do it differently here but i can't explain how. really wish you luck mate make sure you do proper surface preparation.
 

DirectorGunner

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Sadly, the helmet won't be made out of metal... just plastic. which is why I'm spray chrome with clear coat and polish.. maybe a nice deep gloss ceramic polish once it's all done.
I spoke with an old friend from my Ark days, who paints cars professionally as an every day job, got everything I needed to know on what to buy and what I could buy but would be unforgiving if I made mistakes (urethane). I'm gonna try the 2K urethane route for clear coat.. just have to find the right pressure and pass speed on test parts before trying to clear coat the helmet.
The 320 grit sanding,
then primer,
then 1000 or 800 grit sanding,
then a high gloss base coat.. probably black.. it's all easy until the next step..
then clear coat... (fume it, 1 coat may be enough, finding right pressure and pass speed is crucial)
then chroming..
then clear coat (fume it, 2 coats, finding right pressure and pass speed is crucial)
then sand
then clear coat again (fume it, 2 coats, finding right pressure and pass speed is crucial)
then wet sand 1500 grit after final clear
Then polish...
and then.. if I want to go insane-o mode.. use the new deep gloss ceramic polish stuff.

The plan is set... wish me luck lol
 

marcsand2

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Good luck Gunny :beers::beers::beers: (beer when you are ready, not during!!!)
Have a professional do it.
Gar i hate when people say that where is the fun in that?
A professional will do the job faster, will cost a lot more and probably will do it better at first try. Doing it yourself will take much longer, maybe not as perfect as when done by a professional, but is more satisfactory. You know that it isn't perfect and you will see all little mistakes, but YOU made it yourself. Probably it will be more frustrating then fun, but it is your own hard work.
 
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Vavrik

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heh. Something I want to try is either fiberglass or even better, basalt fiber to construct a helmet, and body armor. You can use the/an existing helmet for a mold. If you use basalt fiber, the result can even be bullet proof or rather resistant. the gel-coat layer is smooth as glass if you do it right, and can chromed easily.

(I saw a demo once, 2 layers each of fiberglass, Kevlar and Basalt vs a .45.
The fiberglass took the shot, it went right through, and through the wall behind. You'd be dead.
The kevlar kind of did better, but cracked badly. You'd probably have a serious head wound, including shrapnel from the helmet.
The bullet also cracked the resin of the basalt fiber, but bounced off the first layer. You'd have a very bad headache, but you'd live.)
 
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