Oh, extra flavor! I love it!
Yep, the one in the picture is for seeing through the visor.
As far as printers, the cheapest and best work horse is the CR-10s
I have 6 of them, and every part of them is repairable/replaceable.
So here's my recommendations for a shopping list
Amazon Prime, 2 day shipping (only need x1 of everything)
-Creality CR-10S 3D Printer Large Printing Size 300x300x400mm $579
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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078V7MHWY/
-Replacement Aluminum MK8 Extruder Drive Feed for Creality CR-10S $21.99
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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0761PGLZ4/
-NEMA 17 Stepper Steel and Rubber Vibration Dampers (you're gonna need two extra M3 4mm pan head allen socket screws for this for X axis stepper, Y axis stepper can use included screws without issue) $12.99
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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073FRZTDX/
-Any flexible Micro SD TO SD Card Extension Cable Adapter will do $6.99
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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D9JIUU0/
-Squash Balls - 4 Pack (you're gonna 3D print 4 supports for your bed frame that make use of these to reduce vibration) $14.50
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NBLQ12U/
Any 16GB to 32GB SD card
Take your pick
Non-amazon purchases
-CAREFUL to select the MK9 compatible silicone sock from drop down, this will require you to remove the extruder shroud (easy, 2 screws) and remove the fiberglass insulation tape around the extruder (wear a mask and glass, fine powder fiberglass is dangerous for lungs and eyes). Then once extruder clean but on the silicone sock. This does not only a better job of stabilizing extruder temps but also repeals the plastic from sticking to the extruder. A must have upgrade if you don't upgrade the extruder itself. If you upgrade the extruder to say an E3D volcano, you'll need to new silicone sock to match. $2.75
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https://tiny-machines-3d.myshopify.com/products/mk10-silicone-sock
-This is not needed right away, but a quality upgrade 4 Meters XS Bundle for 1.75mm Filaments (best deal from the site) $44.99
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https://www.captubes.com/shop/#!/4-Meters-XS-Bundle-for-1-75mm-Filaments/p/88846623/category=24343139
This is likely the single most helpful upgrade you can do for CR-10s
Complete BuildTak FlexPlate System $140 or 20% off if you apply for a student discount
https://www.buildtak.com/product/buildtak-flexplate-system/
For PLA, for getting your feet wet.... order any ~$17 1Kg spool of PLA that has +/- 0.03 tolerance and a temp range of about 185 to 210 as those PLA's are easier to print than the harder PLAs that require higher temps. For ABS you'll need to build a vented plexiglass enclosure and keep in mind ABS fumes are toxic. Even with PLA when printing it releases very fine particles in the air evident by the build up on and around the printer over time, so I have all my printers in the garage printing. Once you're comfortable with the cheap PLA, save a TON of money by buying one of these bulk PLAs.
MatterHackers Natural PRO Series PLA Filament - 1.75mm (5LB) $78
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01F5Z1FSK/
MatterHackers Natural PRO Series PLA Filament - 1.75mm (10LB)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01F5Z1DPU/
For these you'll need to build a metal pipe support and figure out the best placement for where your have your printer.
PETG is the ideal but more expensive option to upgrade to once you master PLA and HAVE AN ENCLOSURE because PETG is safe to use for eating utensils but requires an enclosure like ABS does. DO NOT risk printing these two without an enclosure because temp variance will likely cause layer adhesion failures which can ruin your print. Regardless of what idiots claim online. Most of them saying you don't need an enclosure only have lucky experience with one printer. I have in a couple months owned 8 CR-10s and have gone through a ton of growing pains, trust me. I should start doing YouTube videos about all this soon. Anyway.. back to the ideal CR-10S build.
Parts you'll 3D print for the printer
x4 oversized leveling wheels, there's many different versions you can try with different designs, I've used these ones alot
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2788614
I'm in the process of custom making my own design but you'll need the mounts for the squashballs
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2751152
This design is absolutely horse shit (puts dial actuator in bad place and not stable design), but if you have a dial actuator like this, it can help you dial in the bed level tremendously well
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2789569
Finally, besides an enclosure.. some future upgrades you can do are
Upgrade the heat bed and controller board
Upgrade the extruder, E3D options or Micro Swiss
A fancy extruder fan system
Octoprint via a Raspi 3B, enclosure, and Raspi v2 camera to remotely control and monitor your prints.
And that is per say, and ultimate build guide for what to buy for first time buyers of the CR10-s.
Total cost not counting filament
$823.21
not counting SD card and other small odds and ends like those 2 M3 4mm screws.
And that's going to build you the lowest cost and most reliable and largest build volume 3D printer on the market.
CR-10S are work horses. After this coming event, I'm gonna see if I make enough money from my printers printing for clients (ofc completely unrelated to Star Citizen) to justify turning it into a business. I think it may work out well. We'll see.
For slicers, I think Simplify3D works best for the CR-10S $149
https://www.simplify3d.com
I'll attach later the 3 profiles I use for 100 micron, 250 micron, and 350 micron.
And finally, join the Facebook group, an incredible resource for information.
https://www.facebook.com/groups/CrealityCR10/
P.S.
After everything is built, before you start printing yourself parts for the printer, do calibration prints. You could do the calibration cube or the little boat. But then do the tower string test print where you manually adjust your temps via the brain while you print it so you can find the right temp for the PLA you're using to reduce stringing. Once you have everything dialed in for the filament you're using. You'll be golden. Also. temp variation caused by drafts... can ruin your prints.. so eventually plan to make a plexiglass enclosure with a remove-able top and door with some vents.