Saitek X55/X56 Forced Calibration

[Metal-Muffin]

Just recently I had an issue with my brand new, crap-tastic X56 where the rudder wouldn't center after calibrating thru either the HUD software, or the Windows USB Game Conrtoller application in the control panel. I put in a ticket and got this back today that fixed the issue. I also have never seen it anywhere else before, so I figured I'd share for the benefit of humanity:

Thank you for contacting MadCatz technical support.

We are sorry to hear that you have encountered issues with the product.

In regards to your case, we kindly ask you to follow the steps below in order to calibrate the device properly:

Throttle
Axis calibration process for Throttle:
1.Move all axes to max and min twice.
2.Meanwhile make TGL4 down,TGL3 down,TGL2 up(show buttons 14,17,19).
3.Calibration is completed when all lights go out.

Clear axis calibration process for Throttle:
1.Meanwhile make TGL3 down,TGL2 up(show buttons 14,17) before device power on.
2.Meanwhile make TGL4 down,TGL3 up(show buttons 16,19).
3.Clear calibration is completed when all lights go out.

Stick
Axis calibration process for Stick:
1.Move all axes except x/y axes to max and min twice.
2.Move the X axis to min and meanwhile press the buttons Trigger and B and D(show buttons 1,3,5).
3.Calibration is completed when all lights go out.

Clear axis calibration process for Stick::
1.Meanwhile make button A down,HAT1 up,Flying Pinkie down,Mini stick button down(show buttons 2,4,6,7).
2.Clear calibration is completed when all lights go out.

 

[marcsand2]

sounds complicated :confused:
Then the guy who makes the MFG Crosswind made it allot more user friendly. The HW calibration is done with a SW tool and written to the rudder controller when finished. It costs more then a standard rudder, but you get allot back for it!!!

 

[Metal-Muffin]

sounds complicated :confused:
Then the guy who makes the MFG Crosswind made it allot more user friendly. The HW calibration is done with a SW tool and written to the rudder controller when finished. It costs more then a standard rudder, but you get allot back for it!!!

Yeah- it's a pain in the ass, but it worked, so it's got that going for it.

 

[marcsand2]

Yeah- it's a pain in the ass, but it worked, so it's got that going for it.

As long as you only must do this once it is OK.

 

[Metal-Muffin]

As long as you only must do this once it is OK.

It seems to have fixed it. Seems like it was mis-calibrated at the factory. "Surprise!", he said sardonically.

I'm still waiting for a response to the issue of the HUD application failing to select a profile from the task bar.

 

[FluffyVonRage]

how do you find the X56? IS it worth getting over the X55? Looking at getting one mid october time :)

 

[Printimus]

I have an X56 and had problems straight out of the box too, good thing i ordered from amazon, they replaced it with no questions asked, even after I had thrown away the original boxing. Saitek had super shitty customer service. Amazon was suberb. Now my new x56 works like a charm although I still need to practice a LOT with it.

 

[Metal-Muffin]

how do you find the X56? IS it worth getting over the X55? Looking at getting one mid october time :)

They've fixed the aforementioned software issues, and the hard recalibration fixed the other issues I've had, and now mine works beautifully. I think it's a good stick, but the new thumb sticks take getting use to. I ended up setting a pretty heavy curve for my strafe stick. However, if you already have rudder pedals, I would just save up for the warthog. No rudder pedals, go with the x56.

 

[FluffyVonRage]

They've fixed the aforementioned software issues, and the hard recalibration fixed the other issues I've had, and now mine works beautifully. I think it's a good stick, but the new thumb sticks take getting use to. I ended up setting a pretty heavy curve for my strafe stick. However, if you already have rudder pedals, I would just save up for the warthog. No rudder pedals, go with the x56.

Cheers man, only concern now is getting the thing to stick in place on my desk.. Couple big bolts ought to do the trick tho :D

 

[Metal-Muffin]

Cheers man, only concern now is getting the thing to stick in place on my desk.. Couple big bolts ought to do the trick tho :D

Careful. Once you start down that road you'll end up like me, with a full cockpit.;)

 

[FluffyVonRage]

Careful. Once you start down that road you'll end up like me, with a full cockpit.;)

haha, If i had my own place i definitely would.. not sure the landlord would be too happy about a recreation of a vanguard cockpit in the living room..

 

[marcsand2]

haha, If i had my own place i definitely would.. not sure the landlord would be too happy about a recreation of a vanguard cockpit in the living room..

What could be wrong with a portable cockpit, you don't have to bolt that to the floor :D

 

[Metal-Muffin]

What could be wrong with a portable cockpit, you don't have to bolt that to the floor :D

Mine is totally portable. It breaks down into 3 pieces, man-portable, and easily reconstructed. It's just built to be a cockpit/desk so it's not fully enclosed, but fully functional as a cockpit.

 

[liquidmasl]

".., so I figured I'd share for the benefit of humanity:

thanks a lot for that.. it is, still, the only place to find it i guess!

I have a problem with my sticks x - axis, it maxes out at about 30% of the actual max distance, but only to the right.. the left side of the x axis is fine, and the center is too.. it seems it multiplies some value to all positive x values. i dont get why, it shows that way in the controller software and also in the windows settings, so it seems to be something on the device.

Software calibrating didnt work, and i tried your solution but i dont really get it..

How do i start the whole process?
and how do i calibrate the x axis if it is never pushed to max/min?
Move all axes except x/y axes to max and min twice.
isnt then there just one axis left? the stick turn?
i feel i am missing something...

i tried the steps but the lights would never go out.
also what does the clear axis config process do? delete calibration and use default? or is it neaded before starting the calibration process`?


sorry for all the questions but it really saddens me that i cant get this to work ):

 

[Metal-Muffin]

thanks a lot for that.. it is, still, the only place to find it i guess!

I have a problem with my sticks x - axis, it maxes out at about 30% of the actual max distance, but only to the right.. the left side of the x axis is fine, and the center is too.. it seems it multiplies some value to all positive x values. i dont get why, it shows that way in the controller software and also in the windows settings, so it seems to be something on the device.

Software calibrating didnt work, and i tried your solution but i dont really get it..

How do i start the whole process?
and how do i calibrate the x axis if it is never pushed to max/min?
Move all axes except x/y axes to max and min twice.
isnt then there just one axis left? the stick turn?
i feel i am missing something...

i tried the steps but the lights would never go out.
also what does the clear axis config process do? delete calibration and use default? or is it neaded before starting the calibration process`?


sorry for all the questions but it really saddens me that i cant get this to work ):

For my specific problem, just clearing the calibration worked. From what I understand, it just resets all of the calibration to a default state that can't be achieved thru the software. When my "yaw" was center, or at rest, it still registered on the computer as being pushed to one side just enough to make flying shitty, so I think it might help with your issue.
When "clearing" the profile, I had to try multiple times before it worked. Once the lights went out they wouldn't come back on until I unplugged/re plugged the stick into the machine.

For "Axis calibration for stick": Are you using an x55 or 56? The procedures might be different since the x56 has the mini stick where the x55's "C" button was. If you're using an X56 you start the process by moving everything as said, (yaw and mini stick) leaving the x/y alone- but if it doesn't continue to "complete when lights go out" try leaving the mini stick alone and moving the main stick instead. Then hold your x axis (depending on which x/y you're using to recalibrate) and do the button press. Try to maintain an even timing and press the buttons at the same time. The whole process is [poorly] designed so that a person doesn't accidentally force a calibration while playing, so it's going to take a few tries to get it right.

If you manage to calibrate it as described above but you're still having issues, it may be that you are having an issue with the Hall effect sensors under the gimbal. You don't happen to hear a rattling if you shake the stick, do you? Under the gimbal there are magnets attached that pass over sensors soldered to a PCB. If a magnet has become detached or misaligned somehow so that it fails to pass over the sensor, it could cause problems. If the magnets are there, then it's a sensor. They're cheap and easy to replace if you have a soldering iron, but depending on if you're still under warranty/exchange period, may not be worth it. I hope this helped.

 

[liquidmasl]

For my specific problem, just clearing the calibration worked. From what I understand, it just resets all of the calibration to a default state that can't be achieved thru the software. When my "yaw" was center, or at rest, it still registered on the computer as being pushed to one side just enough to make flying shitty, so I think it might help with your issue.
When "clearing" the profile, I had to try multiple times before it worked. Once the lights went out they wouldn't come back on until I unplugged/re plugged the stick into the machine.

For "Axis calibration for stick": Are you using an x55 or 56? The procedures might be different since the x56 has the mini stick where the x55's "C" button was. If you're using an X56 you start the process by moving everything as said, (yaw and mini stick) leaving the x/y alone- but if it doesn't continue to "complete when lights go out" try leaving the mini stick alone and moving the main stick instead. Then hold your x axis (depending on which x/y you're using to recalibrate) and do the button press. Try to maintain an even timing and press the buttons at the same time. The whole process is [poorly] designed so that a person doesn't accidentally force a calibration while playing, so it's going to take a few tries to get it right.

If you manage to calibrate it as described above but you're still having issues, it may be that you are having an issue with the Hall effect sensors under the gimbal. You don't happen to hear a rattling if you shake the stick, do you? Under the gimbal there are magnets attached that pass over sensors soldered to a PCB. If a magnet has become detached or misaligned somehow so that it fails to pass over the sensor, it could cause problems. If the magnets are there, then it's a sensor. They're cheap and easy to replace if you have a soldering iron, but depending on if you're still under warranty/exchange period, may not be worth it. I hope this helped.

i have an x-55, so no additional stick, but that would explain the "all axes but" part...

at the clearing stage,
"meanwhile make A..." meanwhile what?
did you do anything prior?
or should i just try again and again, so i hopefully get the timing right?

i tried to hit those 4 buttons simultanoulsy (and that is quite hard haha) but nothing happens..

I am pretty sure nothing on the hardware is broke, nothing is rattling and the x axis works fine to the left, and also the first 20% to the right..
It seems to me like an obvious calibration mistake, but i dont know..

here is my support ticket, with some graphic visualisation what my problem is..
https://logitechsupport.force.com/saitek/s/question/0D53100006oSU2vCAG/x55-sticks-x-axis-behaves-oddly

I am kind of freaked because i just borrowed the stick 2 days ago, the owner didnt say anything bout a faulty x axis, and i didnt notice is for 2 days! (never flown with joystick, i thought i just suck), now i am not sure if it was there all along or if i broke something..
i totally couldt pay a new stick D:

maybe this really just works with th x56 cant get it working... shit


thanks for your help!!

 

[CorianTeranos]

Sorry to post such a major necro however I just went through a few hours trying to trouble shoot a problem with my X56 and figured I might as well update this post to save someone else the time and aggravation I went through before finally figuring it out myself.

For those of you who attempted to run Clear Calibration (A down,HAT1 up,Flying Pinkie down,Mini stick button down) but did not see the lights go out this is infact the correct key combination but if the unit does not respond it simply means that the stick did not have a manual calibration profile saved and there was nothing in the memory that could be cleared. At this point you can simply skip over step one, reseat the usb cable and continue to step two to run the manual calibration as shown in the OP I am assuming this applies to the throttle module as well but haven't needed to calibrate that yet

 

[ClintTickler]

how do you find the X56? IS it worth getting over the X55? Looking at getting one mid october time :)

Probably too late, but... Don't. Unless if after a month nokidfibg. A month of keybinding, deadzoning, saturating, and curving you don't mid ghost inputs, throttle slides randomly not working at all and being forced to fly via speed limiter alone one minute and lottery style launch success ratios. My experiences thus far. And I've tried all but warranty, or warclubbing into broken satisfying pieces.