Sound advice to anyone buying a used car, thank you!This is excellent advice. Now, over here in the states, BMW and Mercedes parts and service costs an arm and a leg, but from what I understand, over in Europe, Mercs have cars that are fairly reasonable compared to over here.
With an older car like 10+ years old, a Toyota or Honda might be the best bet. Both make good, long lasting cars, and they have enough market volume to make them reasonable to service and easy to get parts for. Even if new parts are unavailable, used parts are available from legitimate sources. (local junkyards, parted out cars, etc)
I owned a Toyota that ran for close to 18 years and it was miles and a lack of driving that did it in. (seized up the rear diff after not driving it a year or so) and it had close to 250k miles on it.
Oh, and with anything that old, you are probably going to either need to do a major engine service right away, unless you have the records that prove it was already done. These can be very expensive and not something I would recommend skipping. This is especially true for changing the timing belt, and a critical item that needs to be done if it's an interference engine. You do not want to risk your engine by not doing the proper maintenance. You should also have your mechanic do a once over before you buy it. If they advertise it "as is", it may not be a good a deal as you think unless you have someone like Edd China from Wheeler Dealers to fix it for you. Remember, people get rid of cars that old for two reasons. They are tired of them, or there is something wrong with them. Mostly it's the "something wrong" part that costs more than they really want to pay, or they have been nickle and dimed to death by it, etc. I get rid of my cars when the average yearly repair costs more than the yearly new car payment.
Good luck to you.
God I miss Wheeler Dealers, especially the early-middle seasons when it was all about repairs and facelifts, and a lot less about trading and showmanship.
Over here, German luxury cars still cost an arm and a leg to repair, but you can probably keep a kidney. Also in my postsoviet country, Mercs are still a huge status symbol, and prices are matched to that. The only reason I'm looking into a BMW is that my mechanic is a certified BMW mechanic, but works for far less. Actually, I'm his only non-bmw-owner paying costumer. BMW parts still cost a lot though, as there is little to no aftermarket parts for the important pricey bits. You gotta buy OEM, or try to find one at the junkyard, but those are rare.
In my local market, all used car sales imply that it's sold "as is", so it's never really written in the ad. While browsing autotrader.com USA, it seemed to me that cars advertised "as is" were in a very poor state, and probably really broken. Prices were far lower as well, now I know why. I will avoid those, thanks for the warning!
Costs and availability for Japanese car parts are all over the place here. A used low-milage fully working toyota yaris engine costs as much as the cheapest aftermarket windshield wiper motor for a Honda CR-V, and both are really popular here. So it depends on the specific car and specific part. Just as an example, I can get all the important parts for a US import Grand Cherokee (I checked) as easily as I can for a Suzuki Swift, because both were sold in the EU (actually the Swift was made in the city right next door to me), but no one has any idea what a 2009 Subaru Tribeca is, so it would be really hard to service. At this moment, there are only 6 Tribecas on Mobile.de, which is one of the most popular car trading website in the whole EU!
I consider it standard procedure after buying a used car, to change all the fluids, and do a thorough checkup. I have accounted for this in the budget.
This includes everything in the engine bay, and under the car. Plugs, ignition, wiring, chains, belts, and so on...
Most importantly, changing the timing belt unless there is definitive proof that it was done recently and is in good condition. I've heard enough horror stories about that... Checking the suspension, linkages, driveshafts, brake system (from pads to hardlines), and ofc checking and most likely changing the transmission fluid, even if it's a "never needs changing" type of manual. Yeah, those were a thing for a while. Is that kinda bs still around, or they now tell you to change it at least every 100k miles or something?
Manual transmission fluid story time:
Back 13 years ago, when he started out, my mechanic believed that you didn't need to change the transmission fluid on my car, as it said in the manual, and is built so that you are never supposed to do it. I was adamant that we change it after I was handed the keys at 18 years old. The car had around a 100k kms (62k miles) in it. The fluid was totally black, burnt up, and had burnt bits in it. It had to be changed, and probably a good 20-30k kms sooner would have been the right time to do it. It made a huge difference in the feel and even the sound of the transmission, and since then we changed it again 50K kms later. On that day he has learnt to check the fluid in any kind of transmission, even if you are not supposed to, because there is no such thing as everlasting transmission fluid!
Question to you in the USA: how widespread, or rare, it is to find cars with odometers that were spun back to a much more "acceptable" mileage?
I'm curious, because over here, you should never buy any car by looking at how many kms (miles) it has on it. There is an insanely high rate of "clock winding", as for some strange reason, every average Joe wants a car with 120K kms maximum on it. So basically, low mileage usually marks a car to be avoided, rather than a good deal...