For tomorrow's shitpost, I'm gonna be testing Spar's own-brand gaming/pro wireless mouse!
(Spar is a grocery store chain, so I don't expect much lol)
(Spar is a grocery store chain, so I don't expect much lol)
Please don't like my thread-campaign
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Irishnutcase
Space Marshal
Irishnutcase
Space Marshal
But if I make a post while on the shitter, does that count as a shitpost, even if it's not intended to be one?
I like to use it for random small bullshit that nobody cares about. So I don't make a whole thread and get disappointed when no one responds. Everyone responds here!
The first Like is free!What the hell is this?!
if you read and Like every post in this thread from Page One onWhat the hell is this?!
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Warning. Contains technobabble. Read at own risk.
1600... and it's dpi - dots per (linear) inch of mouse movement. BTW there are mice with more than 10 times that response, but it depends what you're doing with it. More is not always better. It's just usually a user configuration.
I was on my phone and the picture was tiny, I swear!
Yep, and it can actually switch between 3 preset dpi settings, 1600 being the highest and my preferred setting with windows mouse sensitivity settings set to middle, on my 1080p screens.
It really depends on what you use it for and how you like using it. Some ppl like moving their whole arm with a very slow mouse, constantly lifting the mouse, some like me likes to be able to do a full 180 in fps games just by moving my wrist.
Well, guaranteed 1800 dpS would have been nicer than just havig the dpi lol Especially in WoT and SC :D
Anyways, today I learned why electronics repair ppl like Louis Rossmann hates modern solder.
I ordered 2 new omron switches for my old razer da chroma, to replace the broken left and right clickers. It's like 2 bucks per switch from ebay, well worth it...
But then I remembered that I have an old MS mouse that has other issues, but the switches should be fine still. So I opened it up, and lo and behold, it has almost the exact same omron switches (just click strength/sound difference), and all 5 of them should be a perfect fit!
So I fired up my high-tech brand new digital sodderin iron (bought at Lidle, another grocery chain store), and desoldered the two side button switches as those seen the least use and should be in the best shape.
It went really well, easy! Extracted both with zero issues, no burns or overheating them or anything.
Then I opened the more modern Razer, and tried extracting the bad switches...
It should have taken about 5 minutes, but instead it was 20-30 minutes of struggle. I burned my A finger as the iron slipped onto it while at 400C... Took a 20 minute break of silently swearing at my idiocy and holding a cold beer can to soothe the pain. Applied some medicine stuff to it, I'm already typing with it so it's all good.
Unlike the switches.
Goddamn I hate this modern fake supposedly non-toxic green pussified solder-wannabe shit they put on modern electronics! It's absolutely fucking impossible to remove without having professional gear, and even than it sucks.
It wouldn't stick to anything, it wouldn't ball up, it can't be sucked out with the solder plunger/syringe/pump whatever it's called... I tried using the SMD prep-cleaning fluid which can eat the dirty/oxidized top surface off of solder and allow for proper heat transfer, works great on iphones and the like.. not here. It wouldn't do anything.
So, after spending about 2 hours extracting and cleaning up the board and soldering in the replacements, ruining most of the connection rings around the holes and burning the PCB to a crisp, it is done.
Left click is fixed. Works fine. Right, not so much. No life signs lol I'll have to extract another switch and replace it, see if it can be saved. If not, than I'll be sticking to my Spar budget mouse. It's loud, it lags, it's too small (finger mouse, not palm mouse), but it works. I'll hang on to the new switches I just ordered cos I see a similar future for my new-ish DeathAdder v2.0. They will come in handy in a few years..*
*edit: and I just realized they won't cos it's not using proper omron switches anymore, it's got some light beam tech bs instead so when it breaks, it's dead for good.
Welcome to the wonderful world of modern electronics repair. That coating... the green stuff, it's called solder mask. The solder is underneath. It's not the temperature so much as the coating. They even tell technicians that it's to "protect the solder" which it does... but really it's to make it more expensive in time to make a repair - so you'll just go and buy a new device.
But if you want to you can get tools that can physically scrape it off the solder underneath. Need to be careful about doing that, you can damage the circuit board part of the device. Dremel and other manufacturers of that kind of equipment makes some tools like that. The ones you want are the ones that have a profile like T not Y.
Your solder sounds buggered, dude. My old ass no-lead solder dried up ad failed to function like that. They should put a use by on it.
By green I meant as in environmentalist / the green party, not green in color. Apologies for the confusing wording.
It was just bare solder as far as I could see, but not the fun kind of solder.
But that is very good info for future projects, thank you!
Btw it's like some apple product, black pcb, absolutely no conformal coatings or protection of any kind, non of the contacts look nice and shiny, and only the two main button have the somewhat decent Omron switches, the other 3 are some other brand I never heard of. It's kinda disappointing to see a "premium" product be so low-cost on the inside. At least the braided cable still works fine, even though it has about 1/5 the thickness (and thus copper wire) as the "cheapo" normal cables you get on other mice.
So I've been doing some testing. My new CPU is a huge upgrade to my last. 10 core vs 4 core, 6 generations newer, thing is awesome.
I loaded up Space Engineers (I know, 7 year old game) but it is massively CPU dependent. Flew up above the earth-like, loaded a carrier ship from the workshop, and flew it around 500 m/s (I have a speed unlimiter) Game is about 70-90fps on planet, 120+ in space. I hit the surface and the frames went to 45ish for a second, then bounced back up!
Here's a pic of the ship repawned in next to the voxel hole it left. Not a huge hole cause it was straight on, I should've bellyflopped. Best Buy had like eight i9 10850k chips just sitting on the shelf. Nice time to upgrade a CPU. Now to get a GPU. I'm hoping to wait for a 3080 ti, but I'll get whatever I can get at this point to be honest. Although mine still runs all my old games fine.
I loaded up Space Engineers (I know, 7 year old game) but it is massively CPU dependent. Flew up above the earth-like, loaded a carrier ship from the workshop, and flew it around 500 m/s (I have a speed unlimiter) Game is about 70-90fps on planet, 120+ in space. I hit the surface and the frames went to 45ish for a second, then bounced back up!
Here's a pic of the ship repawned in next to the voxel hole it left. Not a huge hole cause it was straight on, I should've bellyflopped. Best Buy had like eight i9 10850k chips just sitting on the shelf. Nice time to upgrade a CPU. Now to get a GPU. I'm hoping to wait for a 3080 ti, but I'll get whatever I can get at this point to be honest. Although mine still runs all my old games fine.
Devil Dog Hog
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SoloFlyer
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Okay,...I liked not liking this thread but its getting so many likes for not liking that I am,...I need a drink
